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Aannsha’s Blog #198 – Kissebükü Köyü and Yalikavak

Updated: Oct 2, 2021

Last week we showed how we couldn’t get the headsail wrapped properly and there was a fairly quick fix for it. This week, Baz completed that little job, and you can see how easy it was in this week’s video.

5th century ruins

We arrived at Kissebükü Köyü, which is a large bay that has several ruins on the shore. When we took the dinghy to shore, we walked around the fairly run down ruins of a 5th Century AD church and tomb which has the remains of plaster on the inner dome and sides, indicating there used to be fresco style artwork lining the walls.

What I loved about the site of the Harbour Church as it’s called, is that it is situated right behind the beach set amongst pine trees. There are signs that archaeologists have been there, with a table and a few chairs, plus a notice board giving some details of the church.

We found a group of the archaeologists working on the Number Two Bath House after we left the ruins at the eastern end of the bay, and headed towards the centre of the beach. The Bath House is located just to the left of the small beach ‘bar’ (as you look at the beach from the sea).

Rustic beach cooking

The beach bar consists of a campervan and a covered area housing a few tables and chairs. This place is run by an older Turkish couple. The husband takes the orders and the money, and his wife prepares and cooks the meals.

The amazing part of the kitchen set up is that there was a pot of hot fat balanced over some fairly thick burning logs. We watched the lady as she cooked some chips.

When she wanted to turn up the heat, she put the log further underneath the pan and when she wanted to cool the fat down, she pulled the log out a bit!

There was a small tented area to the left of their campervan where she made Gözleme, which is a thin unleavened dough that is stuffed with savoury filling, folded, brushed with butter and cut into slices. The cook prepared these on a traditional sac griddle, which is like a very large domed drum set over coals.

While we were at Kissebükü we treated ourselves to some homemade meatballs, chips and salad. And the following morning, before heading over to the beach with the church ruins to cut Barry’s hair, we bought ourselves a couple of gözleme for breakfast. There are times when a low carb lifestyle just has to be sacrificed to enjoy the local cuisine!

When Baz went to pay for two gözleme, the guy quoted him forty lira (a very inexpensive AU$6.25). The lady however, who had smiled at me the previous day when I’d tried to speak Turkish to her, corrected her husband and said, “No. Thirty.” At AU$4.67, we would have been happy to give her the higher amount, but perhaps she wanted us to pay ‘local’ rather than ‘tourist’ prices. We both said a very big “çok teşekkürler ederim” (thank you very much) and left to enjoy the cheese and herb gözleme sitting on a rock at the beach with our feet dipped in the azure sea and a Byzantine church at our back. Heaven.

Beating the wind, dodging the crowds

We left Kissebükü early the following morning in order to miss as much of the northerly wind before it picked up. We were heading to Yalikavak and we had to round the promontory, heading North West for some of the journey.

Even though the sun had just risen, at one point we could see fourteen other vessels around us. Very different from the last time we’d travelled that way in April. It was totally understandable though; all covid restrictions had been lifted, people were enjoying their holidays, and day-tripper gulet captains were making the most of the season while they could.

We relied on our AIS as well as our eyes for much of the journey, and if you’re new to sailing you may like to see how we use the AIS in this video.

We made it to Yalikavak in just under five hours and dropped anchor in Bahçe Köyü in front of several large, expensive yachts and cruisers, in 10 metres of sand with 40 metres of chain out. It was such a pretty bay with white buildings, green leafy trees, pink bougainvillea and soft sandy beaches.

Next week we explore more of Yalikavak and are amazed at what we discover inside the marina!

To watch this week’s YouTube episode that accompanies this blog just click here.

Until next week, I wish you health, wealth and courage, as you take the actions to bring your dreams to life.


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