Aannsha’s Blog #185 – Knidos to Marmaris - No, Bozukkale!

Updated: Jul 3

Day two of our Mad Dash Back to Kaş began before the sun came up on the last Wednesday of April 2021. We had made a decision to return to our home marina for the three week full lockdown over Ramadan which was rumoured to be possibly extended for up to four or six weeks. Today we were heading to Marmaris bay, which would be a ten hour passage.


It was a calm morning with no wind to speak of and a few clouds. We weighed anchor at 06:25 hrs and headed out of the bay, thankful not to have to wake the captain of another boat which had anchored after us and very close to our anchor. I raised the anchor quickly, Baz manoeuvred like an old pro, sliding past the other yacht with a few metres to spare. And off we went.


We headed over the northern end of the Greek island of Symi which lies very close to the Turkish mainland. Just past its tip, we turned ‘right’ and continued down its eastern side making the most of the right of passage through Greek waters to save a bit of time. Then we would turn ‘left’ and head up to Marmaris.


We weren’t the only boat heading home either that day. We encountered many vessels travelling in both directions, obviously also making a speedy sprint to their own home ports. There was a definite sense of urgency as the full lockdown was to begin on Thursday at 5pm (which we thought at the time it was 7pm) and we had to be in Kaş before then. With only today and the following day, we definitely had to crack on.


A change of plan


Almost three hours into our passage Cap’n Baz came up with an alternative destination. He’d done some fuel calculations and realised that we didn’t have to go all the way to Marmaris, where we’d been headed to refuel. Barry reckoned that we had enough on board to get to Kaş if we overnighted at Bozukkale. That would save us travelling all the way up into Marmaris bay and the actual distance from both Marmaris and Bozukkale to Kaş is exactly the same. So stopping at Bozukkale would save us a bit of time in the long run. We’d still have a 13 hour passage the following day to Kaş, but were relieved that we’d shaved four hours off today’s passage by stopping at Bozukkale.


Ban on booze


We had a chuckle after Baz had chatted to Mike and Elaine on Spicy Lady who were currently in Marmaris and due to head back to Kaş marina. They asked us if we’d heard about the complete ban on alcohol during the full lockdown. We had but we’d decided to finish the alcohol we had on board and then go dry for the remainder of time. You know, give our livers a bit of a rest. Others however were in a bit of a panic and apparently the Migros supermarkets in Marmaris and Kaş had run out of booze.


Lol, I remember the first time there was a lockdown many, many moons ago, toilet paper was the go to item for panic buying. Months into the covid circus and people had learned one thing: You can get by without loo roll in a lockdown (especially with the fabulous douches fitted to all Turkish toilets), but alcohol makes the confined days more bearable. Hahaha!


Wind whips up in Bozukkale


We arrived and anchored in the far end of the bay at Bozukkale, just to the west side of Loryma restaurant. The anchorage seemed okay, but to get a fairly shallow depth so we could let out enough of our 50m chain, we were quite close to shore.


An hour or so later the wind whipped up, putting us on a lee shore with very little room if we dragged anchor. The guys from Loryma shouted over and invited us onto their pontoon (for free). Of course, if we’d known the local wind (which wasn’t mentioned in Windy.com) was going to do that we probably would have gone for the jetty when we first arrived. However, going stern-to was out of the question because we had the dinghy on the davits and so we asked to go on side to.